MULU Clearwater and Wind Caves, Paku Valley Trail

27 August 2018,

The distance from Mulu Village to Park HQ is about 2.5 km. The best way was by bicycle and for the next 3 days I will be using this bicycle with cost RM5 per day

The 3 hours tour to Clearwater cave started at 8.30am. There were 7 of us including our tour guide Kenneth. He is a local and belong to the Berawan tribe. There were originally headhunters until they adopted Christianity and replace headhunting with river boats regattas.

The tour started with a 20 minutes Long boat ride upriver. The consists of 2 boat handlers. One behind to operate the outboard motor and one bowman with a 5 foot pole. His task required him to be very observant and skillfully push the boat away from shallow rocks or sunken tree trunks. At this time of the year, the water level of the river very clear and  shallow, so much so that river bed  is clearly visible.

We arrived at a makeshift jetty and took a short trek to the entrance of  the Cave of the Winds. The name implied that it’s windy but today it’s not so. The guide told us that we are supposed to feel the cooling winds as we walk through the cave chambers.

 

Caves are naturally carved out by dissolving limestone and water flow through it. Over the years, the water level has receded and now becomes dry to be a cave. Certain portion still has water flowing through as the water seeped through the mountain. The guide said this water needed 9 months to permeate through the mountain.

 

Tough there is no more a river flowing through but evidence of it was clearly all over the cave wall. The passage leads to the Kings Chamber with spectacular displays of stalactites and stalagmites and columns.

 

 

The next on our itinerary is a short walk to Clearwater Cave. To reach the cave entrance, we needed to climb about 200 steps. And inside the cave, about 1000 steps to walk through the cave. Guide explained that crystal clear water flows through a system of cave passages measuring over 200 km. The carvings in the cave walls demonstrated the sheer power of this subterranean river carving it’s path through the limestone rock.

 

Outside this cave is a big pool of crystal clear water and so inviting that many tourist after completing the caves walk could not resist jumping into the water for a swim. I did not as only 15 min was allocated. We returned by boat to the park around 12.30

After lunch at the Park café. I took a self guided “PakuValley Loop” This is along 8 km trail through the rainforest and I was initially quite apprehensive about hacking the distance, but I know there is a shortened trek back if I wished. As a safety requirement, I had to register my name at the Park security. I started at 1.30pm

 

The first km was on wooden board walk. Thereafter on footpath that are reinforced with pebbles, some low lying sections have sliced tree trunk for trekkers to avoid the mud or water. Many a times, the giant tree roots interrupted the foot path. There were many uprooted trees along the trail but the trunks had been cut and removed for trekkers.

On the trail, I strolled on my own pace, enjoyed the chance to be alone in this beautiful and peaceful rainforest. Over the 8 km trek, I met only 3 hikers. I grew up in kampung, thus I am completely at ease with this environment. Though it’s peaceful, the rain forest is never quiet. In fact, the entire jungle is filled with noises from insects, bugs, nocturnal creatures and birds, but there all seem to invisible and fused with the forest.

I completed the trail in 3 hours, was very exhausted but with great satisfaction. Still have to cycled another 3 km back to Mulu Village. It was pitch dark and only had a torch light which not powerful to light up far. Luckily, the white paint in the centre of the road helped. Because it was so dark, I have a perception I had took too long and started to doubt whether I have miss a turn. But I was very clear there is no turn. Just negative thought. Soon to my relief, I saw light from Mulu Village.